Finishing Basement Walls without Drywall

The number of new homes being built with basements is declining; at the same time, there is a surge in interest in finishing basements on existing homes is rising. That may initially sound contradictory without looking at the reasons for each change. First, as the cost of building a new home rises, those seeking to develop one are looking for ways to cut costs. An unfinished basement costs between $10 and $25 per square foot, whereas a monolithic concrete slab is only $4 to $14 per square foot. So, eliminating a basement can lower the cost of building that home from $5,000 to over $20,000.

On the other hand, finishing an unfinished basement is the cheapest way of getting additional living space if the home has a basement. While the total finishing cost depends on various decisions, it is typically in the $32 to $47 range. Looking at it differently, building three rooms and a bathroom in a 1,500-square-foot basement will run around $57,000. In comparison, building an addition to the home costs anywhere from $80 to $200 per square foot, so even going as budget-friendly as possible, it would cost more than double to add the same amount of room, building an addition into the backyard. And on top of that, yard space that might already be used for other things would be lost.

Financially, finishing a basement is a wise investment. It provides additional living space for a reasonable amount and provides a return of 64% when the home is sold. That may not seem like a very high percentage, but it is one of the highest percentages of return on remodeling projects, according to the National Association of Realtors.

Please note that it is impractical to do any remodeling project from the viewpoint of improving a home’s value alone. While fixing up homes and flipping them can be a very profitable business, it is one based upon buying houses that are under market value because of maintenance needs. Making those repairs and remodeling should not be confused with each other. While there may be times when it is practical to remodel, because the repairs needed are so extensive; most repairs will not fall into that category.

Another essential thing to note is that the figures I’ve listed above are based on a contractor doing the work. When remodeling projects are done by the homeowner, putting some “sweat equity” into the home, the homeowner typically makes money on the project at the time of sale.

Not everyone has this particular remodeling option, as not all homes are built with basements. About 90% of the homes in the northern part of the country have full basements, while only about 24% of those in the south do. That’s either because of a high water table, which would result in water leaks in the basement, or the bedrock being too close to the surface, making expensive blasting necessary to get enough rock out of the way to dig the basement.

But assuming that the home has a basement available to finish, doing the finish is not as straightforward a job as it might seem. There are a myriad of questions to be answered, each of which is likely to affect other parts of the project. Many of those also affect the project’s overall budget or are determined, at least a little, by the available budget.

One of the significant expenses in a basement remodel is finishing walls because there is so much surface area to cover. The perimeter walls must be completed, and partition walls must be built. Some people go with straight drywall, putting it on all the walls, but others see the project as an opportunity to do something different, covering at least some of the walls with other materials. These other materials are often installed over drywall but don’t necessarily have to be. Since no structural modifications are involved in finishing a basement, it can usually be done without pulling a building permit and getting inspections. However, check local laws before proceeding.

Start with the Structure

Somehow, people have gotten the idea that drywall needs to be installed on basement walls as part of the structure, but that isn’t true, except in a few cases. Most materials attached to the wall must be installed through the drywall and into the structure behind it because the drywall itself is not strong enough to support the material attached to it. The only time material is attached to the drywall without being attached to the structure behind it is in cases where it is attached with adhesives, such as mirrors, or where the material is light enough to attach just to the drywall, such as with textiles.

When we talk about basement wall structure, we could be discussing two different things. The first is the walls that the basement itself was made of. These are typically made of concrete, although they can also be built of cement blocks. Some old homes may have brick walls for the basement, and a few homes are around with pressure-treated wood-walled basements, but that’s more of an experimental building technique than something mainstream. The second is any structure put over the basement’s walls to attach the finish walls. Most people use 2”x 4” construction for this, but other options are available.

Before installing any structure over the structural concrete or concrete block, we need to ask ourselves what finish wall we want to install. There is no sense going through the expense of building and installing a 2’x 4” wall over the existing fence if we don’t need it. Not only might we be spending time and money we don’t need to spend, but we would also lose space in the basement, as the walls would each stand out 4” to 6” from the existing basement wall.

It is possible to eliminate the need for any structural wall if the wall treatment chosen can be mounted directly onto the existing concrete or concrete block. Some people paint those surfaces, which is acceptable, but other options exist (we’ll discuss those in a moment).

Another consideration is putting furring strips (1”x 2”s) or studs (2”x 4”s) flat on the concrete wall with concrete fasteners. While this would still entail buying the wood, and the fasteners are more expensive than framing a 2”x 4” wall, it provides space for wiring without shrinking the size of the basement all that much.

Finally, if framing is required, it is worth considering metal framing rather than wood. While steel studs are about 40% more expensive than wood, they are lighter and easier to move into the basement. That can save on the work required to finish the basement. As they can be assembled with screws and any drill-driver, it can save on buying power tools.

Finishes that Don’t Require Framing

Using a wall finish technique that doesn’t require framing the wall can save time and labor. Of course, one key requirement for this is that the walls be in good shape to start with. Even if materials are being used that don’t require framing, if the walls are cracked or bulging, it might be necessary to frame them just to make them flat. It might also be necessary to frame them to hide any repairs made to the existing walls.

Minor irregularities really don’t require framing to hide them. Small divots in the wall can be filled with concrete filler, and bumps from where the concrete forms meet can be ground down with a grinder to provide a flatter surface. Expect to do a little work to make the walls usable, especially if the wall material is being glued to the concrete if framing is not going to be installed.

Painting the Concrete

The simplest way to treat concrete or concrete block walls is to paint them. Obviously, this will leave the wall’s texture intact and visible, but in cases where a rustic look is desired or where the finish isn’t an issue, it can be a good alternative. Be sure to apply a good sealing primer before painting, as concrete is porous and will soak up a lot of paint.

When working with concrete blocks, it is best to paint the surface with block filler before applying paint. Concrete blocks are even more porous than concrete, so the need for sealing the wall is even more critical. Block filler is an extremely thick paint primer with a high solids content. It fills the pores, providing a smoother, less porous surface for the paint.

Fabric

One of the easiest ways to hide a concrete wall is to cover it with fabric. While not a typical wall covering or something strong enough to hang pictures from, covering a wall with fabric can be attractive, providing a look like an Arabian tent in the desert. While any fabric will do, avoid fabrics with a bold pattern, as they won’t look right. It helps to bunch the fabric slightly like curtains are bunched, which doesn’t work well with bold patterns.

One option for large pieces of inexpensive fabric is to find bed sheets on sale. These can be attached to the floor and ceiling or from a wainscot to the ceiling.

Veneer Plaster

The term veneer plaster doesn’t refer to a sheet material stuck onto the walls with an adhesive like wood veneer stuck to the furniture. Instead, it relates to skim-coating the walls with a thin layer of plaster. This might go over a particular substrate but can sometimes be applied directly to the walls, especially if there is no risk of moisture coming through the walls.

Lath and Plaster

If the plaster can’t be applied directly to the concrete walls, the solution is to attach the lath to the walls and then plaster over the lath. This is the construction technique used before drywall became popular, and it still works just as it did back then, even though it is more labor intensive.

The first step is attaching a lath to the concrete walls. This is usually done with concrete nails. Both wood and metal lath can be used. The lath provides something for the plaster to cling to, preventing it from coming loose from the walls. Once the lath is securely fastened, the lath is troweled on in two or more layers, seeking to get as smooth a surface as possible.

Exposed Concrete Blocks or Cement Board

Exposed concrete blocks and cement boards are an option over concrete, as they can be attached directly to the concrete wall with mastic or mortar. It provides a rugged, industrial look that is very durable.

Brick or Stone Masonry

While not an inexpensive or easy option, covering the existing concrete with stone or brick will definitely provide an attractive look that will be appreciated by everyone. This is the ideal look for someone who is looking for an accent wall that will really stand out and impress visitors.

Finishes that Require Framing

While plenty of wall options don’t require framing, not everything can be done without framing. It may very well be necessary to install some framing in the basement to install the type of wall covering desired. If that is necessary, I’d recommend looking at the options listed above, which take up the least amount of space while providing the necessary support for the wall covering being used.

Pegboard

While not the kind of thing that most people would want to use throughout their basement, covering a section of the wall with a pegboard can offer some exciting options for decorating and storage. If a pegboard is to be used, be sure to use ¼” thick board rather than 1/8” thick so that the board lays flat and doesn’t buckle. The thinner pegboard is more flexible and, therefore, likely to become wavy when weight is put on it.

A fairly extensive selection of pegboard hangers is available. These can either be used to hang things directly on the pegboard or as hangers for things like shelves and bins to store and display items on the wall. Pegboard is a high-density fiberboard, so it is fairly strong; however, due to its thinness, make sure that the structure behind it is well supported.

Cork Board

Like pegboard, cork board gives the homeowner the option of having a versatile wall, either for decoration or as a family message center. It can be thought of as turning one wall in the basement into a giant bulletin board.

Because cork is relatively weak and can break easily, it must be mounted directly to a substrate. If the cement walls are smooth enough, this substrate could be the corkboard. However, most people mount their corkboard to drywall or plywood with an adhesive.

Wahoo Walls

The Wahoo Wall system is an interlocking panel system made of polystyrene walls. These interlock together, providing insulation. The panels are held together with a spline inserted behind the skin, making assembly and installation extremely easy. The surface can be smooth or textured in various ways.

Corrugated Metal

One of the popular looks today is a more industrial look. There are several ways of achieving this, including using corrugated metal roofing material on the walls. This can be screwed directly to structural backing without any drywall in between. Run the ribs on the corrugated metal vertically for the best possible appearance.

Slatwall

Slatwall is an MDF product made for the retail sales industry. The sheets have T-slots cut into them, allowing fixtures designed for use with Slatwall to hook directly into the wall and be moved to change displays. In a home basement, they can be used to make an accent wall, where seasonally appropriate décor can be changed out.

Some woodworkers also use slat walls to make tool walls in their workshops. With that in mind, a slatwall might be helpful in any basement room used as a work area, whether in the laundry or crafts room.

Vinyl Siding

The same vinyl siding used on the exterior of homes can be installed on basement walls. If the floor is left concrete and the overhead floor joists are left exposed, perhaps after staining them, it can give the effect of being on a patio rather than in the basement.

Wood Slats

Installing wood slats is one of the most attractive options for finishing out a basement wall without using drywall. This style started with using salvaged slats from pallets but has morphed into using various materials for the slats. Today, the most common material used for this is wood laminate flooring. Wood laminate flooring systems interlock together fairly quickly, making them easy to install on the wall. They are much easier to work with than the old tongue-and-groove hardwood floors, providing a similar, attractive look.

If wood flooring is to be used for a wood slat wall without drywall underneath it, it is a good idea to use one of the available thicker flooring options. A wall that is ½” to ¾” thick will be much stronger than one that is only ¼” thick.

Textured Wall Panels

There are various textured wall panels on the market, from textures that appear to be random geometric shapes to imitation shiplap and beadboard. Imitation stone and brick walls are available in various styles to match almost any tape. Depending on the type purchased, it may be possible to attach them directly to the basement’s concrete walls, but some styles require a structure and even a backing board to attach to. That will depend on the manufacturer and will be specified in the material’s instructions and on the manufacturer’s website.

Just Plywood

If a rustic look is desired, it can easily be accomplished by installing plywood panels or making board-and-batten walls out of plywood and 1” thick dimensional lumber. One of the more classic looks with plywood is to single the surface with a torch, bringing out the grain. This can be varnished to protect the finish and keep the carbon from rubbing off the wall.

One nice thing about plywood is that it is self-supporting if there is something to attach it to. Even a thinner sheet of plywood (3/8”) can be mounted on 24” centers with little risk of bowing.

Finishing the Project

Whenever using any of these alternative methods of finishing basement walls, be sure to trim out the edges properly. That will do more to make the wall look finished than anything else. Even a concrete block wall with a baseboard installed and molding around openings and corners will look finished. On the other hand, the best and most expensive wall coverings won’t look finished without putting extra effort into installing the proper trim.

Basement recreation rooms tend to be places for a lot of play, including horseplay. Consider that when choosing a wall finish, including any paint or varnish to be used. It’s worth spending a little more on quality finishes that won’t chip or scratch quickly rather than having to repaint or refinish the walls after just a few years.