How to Frame a Basement Wall

Average home ownership today is a mere eight years. That’s up, as in the decade from 2000 to 2009, it was only four years. According to the US Census Bureau, only 37 percent of homeowners have lived in their homes for over ten years.

One of the leading causes of short home ownership is the growth of young families. Couples starting usually can’t afford to buy as big a home as they will need five years later.

So they buy what they can, and when the little ones come along, they realize they need more space. This often causes them to move, losing their equity in their home, assuming they can afford it.

One option for this loss is to remodel the home, adding living space. The question then becomes how to remodel it.

That depends mainly on what space is available. If the house has an unfinished basement, one of the most cost-effective ways of adding space is to finish the basement.

A basic finish can be done for $5,000 to $10,000, although adding bathrooms or more complexity will tend to raise the price of the basement finish project.

This is not just an expense, as finishing a basement, especially finishing it well, will add to the home’s value. Typically, 75% of the basement finish cost can be recouped as a higher sell price when the house is sold.

However, that figure is based on paying a contractor to do the work. When a homeowner does the job themselves, they can expect to recoup roughly double their material investment, assuming the work is done as well as a contractor would do it.

Of course, finishing a basement yourself is considerably cheaper than having a contractor do it. Even so, certain precautions must be taken because finishing a basement isn’t the same as building above ground.

Certain precautions must be taken for all safety equipment dealing with moisture and properly insulating the entire side frame, basement floor, and walls.

A Word About Concrete Basements

While concrete basements are common and supposedly built to the exact tolerances that the rest of the house is made to, a lot depends on the contractor who built the home.

Building inspectors will check that that the basement’s concrete floor and concrete walls were made to building code requirementsuilding code. They will not be reviewing the quality of the finish.

If the home was built properly, that shouldn’t be an issue, as the building code requires a moisture barrier outside the basement walls.

If that moisture barrier is not in place and the basement walls weep moisture, it is not a good idea to try moisture-proof building walls in the basement from the inside.

Installing plastic film or a vapor barrier on the inside of the basement wall to moisture-proof it is a mistake, as that will provide a place to trap moisture, which will encourage the growth of mold and fungi in the basement building walls themselves.

In cases where the walls seep water, a moisture barrier should be installed on the outside edge of the wall.

There are foundation repair companies who specialize in doing this sort of work, and it would probably be best to contact one of them to do so rather than attempt it as a DIY project.

However, it’s not a bad idea to paint the inside of the basement walls first with a roll-on waterproofing compound. This will help deal with the condensation that sometimes seeps through the masonry, especially if the basement floor is made of cement block rather than poured concrete.

These products should only be painted onto a clean, dry surface. So before painting it on, clean off the interior basement walls first, and allow them to dry. If necessary, put an area heater in the basement that contractors use on job sites to dry the interior basement walls.

Fiberglass batts should not be utilized to insulate a basement, as they provide a great place for moisture to be trapped. Instead, closed-cell foam insulation should be used. Extruded polystyrene XPS or foam board insulation should be used, as it is moisture resistant. Not all foam boards are made to be moisture-resistant. Since this board has an R-value of 5 per inch, a two-inch thick foam board will provide an insulation value of R-10.

That’s pretty typical for basements, as the ground around the part framing a basement also provides insulation.

First, measure and cut the panels to fit to install the foam board. A snug fit that slides right in is ideal. If the foam board has to be pounded into place, it’s been cut too long. Using a construction adhesive rated specifically for foam insulation, place vertical lines of the construction adhesive down on the wall, every 12″ apart.

Do not use any horizontal lines, as those provide a place to trap moisture. Press the panel into place and allow it to set to dry. The construction adhesive is viscous enough that no clamp should be required.

Run a continuous bead tape measure of caulking around the insulation and in any seams between insulation panels. A special measuring tape measure can be purchased to seal the seams between boards rather than caulking.

Spray-in Insulation

Another option for insulation is to make fiberglass insulation using spray-in polyurethane foam. This fiberglass insulation is considerably harder to work with but should be used in cases where the home has stone and mortar foundation walls.

In that case, the project is considerably different, as the full-frame basement walls should be framed with any plumbing and wiring installed before the foam insulation is in place.

Leave the foundation wall framing 1-1/2″ to 2″ away from the entire frame basement walls when setting it in place to leave adequate room for the insulation.

The spray foam insulation is sprayed onto the walls using a special spray tool. It takes some practice to get used to how much liquid insulation should be applied, as it expands while it is curing and will expand more than the novice might expect.

For those who have used an airless paint sprayer for painting their home, spray foam insulation goes on slightly faster than that.

Ideally, the foam should expand to the point just below the 2″ x 4″ wall framing level without sticking out above the edges of a window frame or the wall studs.

If it does, the excess will have to be cut off before drywall can be installed, so careful application to the wall directly to avoid that is recommended.

Framing Basement Walls

Before framing a basement wall, inspect the ceiling joists and floor joists from overhead. Where the ceiling joists and floor joists run parallel to the basement wall to be framed, it will be necessary to add blocking between the outermost joist and the sill plate for the perimeter wall.

This will provide something for the top plate of the basement framing wall to be attached to. The floor joist and end of those blocks can be nailed through the joist into the end of the block, but the sill end will need to be toenailed into place. That may require a pneumatic nailer, as it will be a difficult angle to the toenail.

Partition Walls

The same problem may exist for partition walls if the placement of the two-floor joists and ceiling joists is not considered when making the floor plan.

But that’s not a problem, as all that needs to be done is adding a chalk line of 2″ x 4″ blocks between the two-floor joists and ceiling joists themselves.

Nail through the joist and into the ends of the block, with two nails at each end, ensuring that the block is flush with the floor joists, the bottom edge of the concrete wall, and the floor joist itself.

Snap a Line for the Inner Edge of the Floor Plate

The other thing that should be done before framing the foundation walls is to snap a line for the inner edge of the back pressure-treated bottom floor plate.

Measure out 4″ from the face of the back pressure-treated bottom plate with insulation and snap a line there. That will provide 3-1/2″ for the thickness of the basement slab framing, plus an extra ½” of space between the basement concrete wall with studs framing concrete slab and the back pressure treated bottom plate with insulation.

This extra ½” of space helps ensure that the walls end up straight, even if the concrete walls for the basement are not.

Start with the Longest Basement Walls

It’s usually best to start framing basic interior walls with the longest walls first before installing the framing on the next wall and other interior walls in shorter sections.

This provides the most working space. Always finish the floor plan and wall layout framing the perimeter walls before framing the interior or partition walls.

Framing the Wall on the Floor

Assuming some floor space, it is usually easier to assemble the wall section lying on the floor and then tip it into place.

Build the wall ¼” shorter than the measurement from the floor to the first bottom plate, top plate, and bottom plate on either side of the rafters. This will allow the entire wall side to be tipped up into place, accounting for the dimension between opposite corners of the floor and ceiling plates (top and bottom plates) being slightly longer than the height of the entire wall side. Studs should be installed every 16″.

For your convenience, always measure your spacing from the same direction at each end of the wall, either right or left, so you’ll know where to find the studs later.

Framing the wall on the floor allows nailing through the top and bottom plates together into the studs, rather than having to nail gun the top plate and bottom plate top to toe and nail gun two nails into each end of each two vertical studs.

It’s much faster to nail gun through the top and bottom plates together, into the studs’ ends, than to nail gun the top plate and bottom plates top to the toenail.

If any windows or doorways are to be made into the wall, it’s easier to frame them while the wall framing is assembled on the floor. A double stud should be used on either side of the window frame for any such opening. In the case of doorways, leave the floor plate in place until the wall frame is installed, then cut out the plate in the door or the window frame and install a blocking frame.

Double Studs

Double studs, with blocks in between them, will also need to be used for the inside corner, on the load-bearing wall side of the frame basement walls and the frame basement walls, and the basement floor that is raised first.

The framing basement floor and frame basement walls provide something to nail or screw drywall to. Without the double stud in the corner, only one side of the wall layout the corner could be nailed in place.

The other load-bearing wall would be hanging out in the air.

Stand the Assembled Wall

Stand the assembled double plate of wall framing up and align the outer edge of the floor plate with the chalk line previously snapped on the bottom floor and concrete slab.

Fasten the pressure-treated top plate of wall framing to the chalk line of the floor, either with powder-actuated fasteners or Tapcon screws.

Using powder-actuated fasteners requires a special tool to drive them when they can be rented, and installing Tapcon screws requires a hammer drill.

Almost Done

Before attaching the top of the wall, use a level to ensure it is perfectly plumbed down. That’s why a line was not snapped on the joists’ top, bottom, and bottom plates. Use a pair of shims at every third joist and at the joists closest to the ends of the wall to fill the space between the top plate and bottom plate and the joist.

Nail through the shims and then cut off the excess. The remainder of the joists should also be nailed, but shims are not required. Do not try to pull the top plate and bottom plate back up to the joists in these locations; nail them to stabilize the new wall above.

Final Steps

Look around the finished frame basement walls or concrete slab before framing, trying to find any place on the frame basement walls or concrete slab where support for the drywall may be missing, especially on the inside corner and anywhere that two walls form a “T.”

Additional studs or blocking may need to be added, and it’s much easier to do that while framing frame basement walls or concrete slab walls than to have to stop hanging drywall to do it.

Special Framing

Another place where some special framing might be necessary is around any existing ductwork or drain pipes. These should fit within the walls and ceiling, but even so, it’s a good idea to check them before continuing with the rest of the project.

Use a level to span the wall studs on either side of a pipe or other ductwork, ensuring the drywall can make the span without a bulge.

Framed basement

Finishing the Basement Walls

Framing is only the beginning of the basement framing project, but it is a very important step. Once the basement framing part is complete, electrical wiring needs to be installed, including wiring for television, telephone, and internet, if it is going to be installed.

Be sure to install any ductwork required so that heating and air conditioning can be provided to the living space in the basement.

A drywall is then installed onto the wall framing. Most people do not bother installing it on the ceiling but use acoustic tile. This allows the possibility of getting into the space between the wall frame and the rafter for additional remodeling jobs or repairs. When installing drywall, always ensure that all edges of each piece are fastened to the wall framing so that there are no loose edges. Otherwise, the taping job will eventually crack in those places.

If there are places where the drywall does not have adequate support, additional fire blocking can always be installed until the drywall itself is. There is no such thing as fire blocking or “wrong blocking” as long as it does its job.

Frequently Asked Questions about Framing a Basement Wall

How do you build a wall frame in a basement?

• Building a wall frame in a basement is a relatively simple process, but there are a few things you need to keep in mind:
• You need to ensure the floor and walls are level before framing. If they’re not level, your frame will be crooked, and your finished product will look terrible.
• You’ll want to use 2x4s or 2x6s for the framing studs, depending on the load requirements of the wall.
• Use 3-inch (7.6 cm) nails or screws to attach the studs to the plates at the top and bottom of the wall.
• Properly align and space the studs so your finished wall is straight and level.
• When attaching the top and bottom plates to the studs, use metal strapping or hurricane ties to reinforce the connection and prevent the wall from collapsing in case of high winds.

How do you see how to frame a basement wall or finished basement wall?

Framing a basement wall is generally pretty straightforward. You’ll want to start by measuring and marking the location of your very first wall stud on the floor. Then, you can use a level to make sure the top and bottom plates of the wall stud is square with the floor and mark the other side of the stud. You can measure and mark each subsequent two basement wall studs from there.

Once all your marks are in place, it’s time to start framing basement walls! Start by nailing the bottom of the treated plate onto the floor at each mark. Then, nail the top of the treated plate to the top of framed basement wall at each stud.

Finally, fill gaps between the treated plate and the studs with additional lumber (called “blocking”). And that’s it – you’ve successfully framed a basement wall!

(How to frame a basement wall? Do you see how to frame a basement wall or floating wall in how to prepare a basement wall?

There are a few ways to frame a floating wall in a basement. One is to use metal studs and tracks, which can be attached directly to the floor or anchored into the same concrete floor slab.

The other option is to use wooden studs and furring strips, which can be connected directly to the floor or anchored into the same concrete slab. Either way, you must install furring strips on the framing to attach drywall or paneling.

Do you insulate basement walls before framing?

It depends on your climate and the type of insulation you plan to use. In colder climates, insulating the walls before framing is essential to prevent moisture accumulation and frost formation.

However, framing the walls first and installing the insulation in warmer climates may be more efficient.

Can you frame basement walls with 2×2?

It’s possible to frame basement walls with 2×2 lumber, but there are a few things to remember. First, using 2×2 lumber for basement wall framing will result in a thinner wall, so make sure your local building codes allow for this.

Second, you’ll need to use more framing members than you would with a 2×4 wall, so the project’s overall cost may be higher. Third, because the lumber is smaller in dimension, you’ll need to be careful when attaching electric wiring and outlets – make sure they’re properly secured so they don’t come loose over time.

Finally, keep an eye on moisture levels in your basement; thinner basement walls make it easier for moisture to penetrate and cause problems down the road.

How do you frame a basement wall or cinder block basement wall?

A cinder block basement wall is framed similarly to a concrete basement wall. The blocks are laid out on the foundation, and the seams between the blocks are filled with mortar.

A metal or lumber frame is built around the blocks’ outside, and the top straight lumber frame is attached to the blocks with screws or nails.

There are several ways to attach drywall to a cinder block wall. One common method is to use furring strips, which are furred out from the face of the blocks by 1-1/2 inches.

Another method is to attach metal channels to the blocks and then hang the drywall panels from these channels.

Why is there a gap between the chalk line on the basement wall and the snap lines on the concrete floor?

The gap between your basement wall and the floor is there for a few reasons:

• It allows for the expansion and contraction of your basement walls. Without this gap, your walls would be subject to cracking and other damage.
• The gap provides ventilation for your basement, helping to keep mold and mildew at bay.
• The gap allows you to install utility lines (like electrical wiring) behind your walls more easily.

Do all basement walls need to be in the same direction as floating walls?

No, not all basement walls need to be entire floating walls. If your basement has been constructed properly, the weight of the house will be transferred to the foundation through the floor joists.

However, if your basement is unfinished or has poorly insulated walls, it is good to have at least some of the walls floating. This will help to prevent moisture and mold problems.

How much gap does a floating wall need?

Most floating walls need at least a 1/2″ gap between the top plate and bottom plate of the wall and the floor. This allows the whole wall to “float” and makes it less likely to bind when opening and closing. You may need a more significant gap if your top and bottom plate is hefty or if your framed wall has unique features.

Should I use pressure-treated lumber to frame my basement ceiling?

When deciding whether to use treated lumber to frame your basement, there are a few things to consider. The most crucial factor is the moisture level in your basement. If your basement is prone to dampness or flooding, treated lumber is an excellent choice to help prevent mold and wood rot.

Another thing to consider is the type of insulation you’ll be using. If you plan on using fiberglass insulation, treated lumber is unnecessary.

However, if you’re using spray foam insulation, treated lumber can help prevent moisture from migrating through the walls and damaging the insulation.

Finally, if you’re concerned about chemicals used in the treatment process, there are now options for treated lumber that use environmentally friendly preservatives.

If you choose this option, ask your lumber supplier for more information.